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ZuZu has brought ramen to Park Slope, which alone is cause for celebration among brownstone-dwelling noodle-heads. But on top of that, classically trained chef Akihiro Moroto, late of Lespinasse and Jean Georges, has taken several liberties with tradition, at the risk of infuriating some devotees and titillating others. Consider us thoroughly titillated, especially by the Thai-inspired green-curry-miso ramen ($10), a moderately spicy bowl of soup garnished with fragrant sprigs of Thai basil and stocked with the same springy noodles, runny egg, and blowtorched char shu (long strips of braised pork) that populate the classic smoky house “ZuZu” ramen ($14). Moroto also makes a comforting beef curry, available over rice or noodles, and a version of the increasingly ubiquitous pork buns—his stuffed with sticky, caramelized bits of pork shoulder, thick cucumber slices, and a sweet chile sauce ($8). There’s Japanese beer and sake, the traditional ramen quaffs, and bar seats that look directly into the glass-walled kitchen. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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