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Appellation is the first shop in New York to market itself as a natural-wine source. More than two thirds of its inventory is either organic or biodynamic, organized by country and by body (lightest to fullest). “In order to be bio,” says owner Scott Pactor, “chances are you’re plowing fields using animals, and using their dung as compost. You’re intimate with your grapes.” Whether consumers are as intimate with some of these wines is another matter—one Pactor likes to address by assiduous hand-selling and plenty of tastings.

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