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Before Connecticut Muffin and Ozzie's, and way before Starbucks, Cousin John's opened its doors on Seventh Avenue, serving specialty coffees, cookies, pies and pastry in a narrow storefront café. With a huge plate glass window of beguiling desserts, warm exposed brick walls and black-and-white checkered linoleum, the bakery exudes old-fashioned comfort. Fruit tarts edged in ground pistachios and bedded in sweet custard are sublime, and even quotidian sweets of oatmeal cookies and apple-crumb pie reflect a skilled touch. The fancy cakes resemble edible sculptures, but these confections can err on the side of too much cream, sugar or decoration. While the weak coffee, left to sit on the burner, can't compete with that of a certain national franchise, the egg-rich brioche and cinnamon rolls make a nurturing start to the day.

Fans often wait on line for the Sunday brunch, served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.