Dom's Fine Foods

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This venue is closed.

It's easy to be misled by the tasteful but unmistakably neon signs, the lofty ceilings, the softly sanded plank floor and the spacious, well-appointed and brightly lit shopping area, but Dom's is no Johnny-come-lately yuppie superette. On the contrary, this beloved Italian grocery is what you might have expected from Soho before the rents went up. Focused on Italian food, the store artfully mixes supplies for the old-style from-scratch cook and the harried worker who just wants to heat and eat. Just outside the entrance, the store stocks a small selection of fresh Italian breads, produce and herbs. A few rows of shelves inside offer imported pastas, Arborio rice, olive oils (some in cans, rather than bottles, to protect its virginity from the light), Italian cookies and juices and nectars. Still further back, two horizontal refrigerator cases provide an array of pates and cheeses, many Italian, but not all—Camembert, Greek feta and cheddar are also on display—which are conveniently close to gourmet crackers and cheese straws. Manned counters at the back and side of the store are loaded with still more cheese, a select but choice sampling of beef, lamb, pork and other meats and fish. Frozen entrees, gnocchi and pasta are also available, and heaping portions of prepared meatballs, lasagna, and other enticing homecooked fare can be bought ready to go. — Jessica Branch