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Think of it as the Dylan’s Candy Bar of Indian spices, rice, and legumes, minus the chaos. Check out the fresh curry leaves, basmati rice, French green lentils, garam masala (ground or grind-it-yourself), bitter melon, dried limes (loomi), and five or so types of mango chutney. Kitchen grunts from Gramercy Tavern, Spice Market and Tamarind have been known to stop in, as have Gray Kunz, Michael Romano, and especially Dévi chef-owner Suvir Saran, who prefers Foods of India to nearby Kalustyan’s: “Their spices are fresher, of better quality, and packaged much cleaner than anywhere else in the country. Many Indian friends of mine will buy spices here to take back home.” — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld