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If Tony Soprano lived in Brooklyn, this is the bakery where he'd pick up a box of cannoli for Uncle Junior. Old paisanos wile away the afternoons sipping espresso at glossy black tables and watching the world go by through a wall of storefront windows. During the warmer months, this corner neighborhood institution draws a younger crowd from all over the city to sample its 24 flavors of gelato—including hard-to-find options like zuppa inglese and tiramisu—made fresh every day with ingredients flown in from Italy. You can taste the extra effort in the slightly smoky roasted pistachio and the ultrasweet strawberry. Though his family comes from Naples, owner Michael Fortunato draws inspiration from all over the boot in concocting his classic dolci—marzipan and sponge cake cassatta stuffed with cannoli filling, white chocolate-dipped kisses filled with hazelnut mousse, and crunchy yet chewy almond biscotti. — Keach Hagey