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When the French Butcher, formerly the resident butcher at Les Halles, absconded from his store (he's believed to be in Thailand, though no one knows for sure), Gramercy residents worried that they'd have to readjust to the shrink-wrapped offerings at Gristedes. Luckily, the small shop lives on, and aside from a new name, nothing much has changed. In addition to the organic, premium red meat that's the main event here, there's also a small case of French cheeses, shelves with bottled sauces (some bearing a Gramercy Meat Market label), a refrigerator case of hearty meat-based meals, rotisserie chicken, and a variety of sausages and hot dogs. They even house a small selection of produce. Owner Antero Pereira, who worked under the French Butcher, presides, in a kind and knowledgeable manner, over the meat counter, cutting large slabs of rib eye, sirloin, London Broil, and veal chop to order. More esoteric meats like kangaroo, buffalo, and turtle are also available. — Nancy Davidson