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At this old family business, racks of cooling pane di casa and other loaves yield yeasty, cheesy, even meaty smells. The busy shop's variety breads are the bakery's calling cards: The modestly plump provolone loaf swirls with yolky fresh cheese; the flaky, ring-shaped lard bread is flecked with pork and black pepper. Other breads (tangy black olive, sweetish semolina) may beckon you back but you never know what you're going to get since the wares fly out of door. The bakers take their chances, too, trying out new breads like the jalapeño loaf, even if the neighborhood nonnas snub experimentation. With all due respect to the almond contucci cookies and the meringues, Madonia's cannoli—small, crunchy shells, piped fresh to order with dense, citron-laden semifreddo—could inspire a cult. — Jack Robertiello