Mother Mousse

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If your idea of mousse is an airy, cocoa-colored confection that fills an iced goblet after an elegant meal, think again—at this Staten Island innovator the dessert takes a number of flavors and forms. Classic chocolate, Irish crème, white chocolate laced with chocolate chips, vanilla fudge, and cappuccino mousse are always on hand, served in individual tartlets—muffin-sized bombs of cholesterol-laden pleasure—or as the filling for entire whipped cream-topped cakes, dozens of which line refrigerated glass showcases. Special orders are the heart of Mother Mousse's business, with more than 200 varieties of custom, novelty sugar cookies—cut into the shapes of Manolo stilettos and Communion crosses, soccer balls and perky green frogs. Customers can order cookies of their own design, as well as gift baskets that combine a range of confections, like layered rainbow cookies, lemon squares, Linzer tarts and meringues, or dessert trays of 24 mini sweets. Quantity doesn't undermine the quality: The baked goods are uniformly fresh, if generously laden with kitschy motifs (and food coloring to spare). — Helen Zelon

Unfilled, baked cannoli shells for sale offer a shortcut for the home pastry chef.