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The restaurateur behind i Trulli, Nicola Marzovilla, opened this Italian wine shop in 2000, six years before launching  Centovini (with co-owner Murray Moss). Yet unlike his high-design retail-restaurant combo in Soho, the setting of his original wine haven favors an old-world style: Soft light on blonde wood provides a gentle backdrop for varietals and vintages that, according to operations manager Jim Hutchinson, people in Italy actually drink. Because of the store's diminutive size, the selection seems small, but a cellar holds many selections not seen on the shelves. Reasonable bottles from the South are plentiful; rare selections like those from Giacosa and Mascarello can be reserved; and liqueurs like Mirto (made from myrtle berry) and Limonsardo (an alternative to Limoncello) extend the offerings beyond the grape. For those unfamiliar with the less common finds, frequent classes are held in the vinoteca accessed in back. — Alexandra Vallis