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1900-1920: The Birth of
Celebrity |
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Delmonico's
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CHICKEN à LA KING might come in a can now, but it was
grand when invented at Delmonico’s, along with lobster Newburg
and pie à la mode. Mark Twain (below, at his birthday dinner)
was a frequent diner at this most opulent of New York eateries, as
was Samuel F.B. Morse, who sent the first transatlantic cable from
his regular table. But it was the appearance of a new class of self-made
sub-plutocrat big spenders like “Diamond Jim” Brady that
would change New York society. Brady often began his meal with dozens
of oysters, six crabs, and a few bowls of turtle soup, moving on to
two whole ducks, six or seven lobsters, and a sirloin steak. He topped
it off with a platter of pastries and often a two-pound box of candy.
The democracy was in the piggery.
Photo: The Granger Collection |
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