"This is the Men's Grill," Mr. Ryan said. "Ladies are not allowed except on Friday evenings."
Next was the brightly lit connecting kitchen. "Our kitchen serves hot and cold foods. You'll work six days a week here. The club is closed on Mondays. The kitchen serves the Men's Grill and an adjoining room called the Mixed Grill. That's where the ladies and kids can eat."
"And what about men? Can they eat in there, too?"
This elicited a laugh. "Of course they can. Time and place restrictions apply only to women and kids."
He showed me the Mixed Grill, a well-lit, pastel-blue room with glass French doors and white wood trim.
"Guys, say hello to Larry. He's a new busman at the club." I waved.
"And this is Rick, Stephen, Drew, Buddy, and Lee." Five white waiters dressed in white polo shirts with blue "1892" club insignias nodded while busily slicing lemons.
"And this is Hector and Carlos, the other busmen." Hector, Carlos, and I were the only nonwhites on the serving staff. They greeted me in a mix of English and Spanish.
"Nice to meet all of you," I responded.
"Thank God," one of the taller waiters cried out. "Finally—somebody who can speak English."
Mr. Ryan took me and Carlos through a hall lined with old black-and-white portraits of former presidents of the club. "This is our one hundredth year, so you're joining the club at an important time," Mr. Ryan added before walking off. "Carlos, I'm going to leave Larry to trail with you—and no funny stuff."
Standing outside the ice room, Carlos and I talked about our pasts. He was 25, originally from Colombia, and hadn't finished school. I said I had dropped out, too.
As I stood there talking, Carlos suddenly gestured for me to move out of the hallway. I looked behind me and noticed something staring down at us. "A video camera?"
"They're around," Carlos remarked quietly while scooping ice into large white tubs. "Now watch me scoop ice."
After we carried the heavy tubs back to the grill, I saw another video camera pointed down at us. I dropped my head.
"You gonna live in the Monkey House?" Carlos asked.
We climbed the stairs to take our ten-minute lunch break before work began. "Monkey House is where workers live here," Carlos said.
I followed him through a rather filthy utility room and into a huge white kitchen. We got on line behind about twenty Hispanic men and women—all dressed in varying uniforms. At the head of the line were the white waiters I'd met earlier.
I was soon handed a hot plate with two red lumps of rice and some kind of sausage-shaped meat. There were two string beans, several pieces of zucchini, and a thin, broken slice of dried meat loaf that looked as if it had been cooked, burned, frozen, and then reheated.
I followed Carlos, plate in hand, out of the kitchen. To my surprise, we walked back into the dank and dingy utility room, which turned out to be the workers' dining area.
The white waiters huddled together at one end of the tables, while the Hispanic workers ate quietly at the other end. Before I could decide which end to integrate, Carlos directed me to sit with him on the Hispanic end.
I was soon back downstairs working in the grill. At my first few tables, I tried to avoid making eye contact with members as I removed dirty plates and wiped down tables and chairs. I was sure I'd be recognized.
At around 1:15, four men who looked to be in their mid- to late fifties sat down at a six-chair table while pulling off their cotton Windbreakers and golf sweaters.
"It's these damned newspeople that cause all the problems," said Golfer No. 1, shoving his hand deep into a popcorn bowl. "These Negroes wouldn't even be thinking about golf. They can't afford to join a club, anyway."
Golfer No. 2 squirmed out of his navy-blue sweater and nodded in agreement. "My big problem with this Clinton fellow is that he apologized." As I stood watching from the corner of the bar, I realized the men were talking about Governor Bill Clinton's recent apology for playing at an all-white golf club in Little Rock, Arkansas.
"Holt, I couldn't agree with you more," added Golfer No. 3, a hefty man who was biting off the end of a cigar.
"You got any iced tea?" Golfer No. 1 asked as I put the silverware and menus around the table. Popcorn flew out of his mouth as he attempted to speak and chew at the same time.