El Quinto Pino
401 W. 24th St., nr. Ninth Ave.; 212-206-6900
Tiny but atmospheric Quinto Pino is that rare thing outside of Spain—a true, uncompromised tapas bar. The trick is in the artful editing: The wine list is Iberian-only; the cocktail specials channel quintessential Spanish flavors (tiger nut in the frozen spiked horchata or pomada, a basil-gin lemonade); the dozen-odd small plates (Spanish cracklings, sizzling shrimp) pack in loads of salty, garlicky flavor; and the toasted ficelle smeared with sea urchin and mustard oil alone justifies a special trip. Also accurate: There’s no room for tables.