Every week on New York’s food blog, Grub Street, a chef is asked to describe a favorite recently eaten restaurant dish. The following week, that dish’s chef nominates another memorable comestible, and so on—hence the name, Food Chain. Here we play the same game with bartenders.
To kick things off, Grub Street editor Daniel Maurer suggests his favorite current drink:
Made by: Adam Schuman at Fatty ’Cue (91 S. 6th St., nr. Berry St., Williamsburg; 718-599-3090)
Contents: Wray & Nephew overproof rum, smoked pineapple, lime juice, yuzu juice, Tabasco, Pernod ($8).
Maurer Says: “All of the smoky depth of barbecue without the grease and fat—and with the added spice and kick of yuzu and lime juice. Before a meal at Fatty, it’s like barbecue foreplay.”
Schumann’s Pick: The Gov’ner
Made by: Greg Seider at the Summit Bar (133 Ave. C, nr. 8th St.; no phone)
Contents: Yamazaki twelve-year whiskey, toasted cardamom-infused agave, Japanese yuzu, fresh orange juice ($12).
Schuman Says: “Whoever said that bartending isn’t the same as cooking is just incorrect. Here Greg is taking a Middle Eastern spice and pairing that acidic, herbaceous [yuzu] flavor with smoky scotch. It’s a really nice play on a sour.”
Seider’s Pick: Shiso-Cucumber Collins
Made by: Warren Hode at BondSt (6 Bond St., nr. Lafayette St.; 212-777-2500)
Contents: Hendrick’s gin, simple syrup, cucumber, shiso, lemon juice, yuzu-zest salt ($12).
Seider Says: “Shiso is a complex flavor, like cinnamon, and the cucumber blends in without any of the acid. Total harmony, flavorwise.”
Hode’s Pick: Creole Daiquiri
Made by: Jim Kearns and Lynnette Marrero at Rye House (11 W. 17th St., nr. Fifth Ave.; 212-255-7260)
Contents: Old New Orleans three-year rum, chorizo-infused Sombra mezcal, lime, pomegranate molasses, cane syrup, salt ($13).
Hode Says: “It’s a spin on a daiquiri, so it has to have an element of tartness to it. The chorizo reinforces the boldness of the other ingredients and gives it another layer of complexity.”
Marrero’s Pick: The Pale Rider
Made by: Phil Ward at Mayahuel (304 E. 6th St., nr. Second Ave.; 212-253-5888)
Contents: Dry fino sherry, jalapeño-infused tequila, lime juice, cucumber ($13).
Marrero says: “You want to drink something refreshing this time of year, not whiskey with a bunch of bitters. Jalapeños infused in tequilas are really fun, and sherry is a beautiful alternative to vermouth.”
Ward’s Pick: Campari and Soda
Made by: Matt DeVriendt at the JakeWalk (282 Smith St., at Sackett St., Carroll Gardens; 347-599-0294)
Contents: Campari, soda, orange twist ($7).
Ward Says: “It’s a great Sunday early-afternoon drink—like a grown-up soda. Campari isn’t really a palate cleanser so much as an aperitivo or digestif. I can drink many more than one and never get in trouble.”
DeVriendt’s Pick: Athol Brose #3
Made by: Julie Reiner at Clover Club (210 Smith St., nr. Butler St., Cobble Hill; 718-855-7939)
Contents: Glenfiddich twelve-year scotch, honey syrup, Peychaud’s bitters, cream float, nutmeg ($12).
Devriendt Says: “The honey gives it a little bit of sweetness, but it has a Guinness-like head on top. A nice boozy drink.”
Reiner’s Pick: The Sumo Collins
Made by: St. John Frizell at Fort Defiance (365 Van Brunt St., at Dikeman St., Red Hook; 347-453-6672)
Contents: Gordon’s gin, fizzy lemonade ($11).
Reiner Says: “It’s basically a 24-ounce, well-crafted Tom Collins in a very large Collins glass. It comes with a straw, and it’s not hard to drink at all. By the time you get to Red Hook, you’re really thirsty.”