Thirstbaràvin
629 Classon Ave., at Pacific St., Crown Heights; 718-857-9227
It’s just your average, bleak Brooklyn stretch: a handful of auto-body shops, a slaughterhouse, and, oh, yes, a gleaming mega–wine bar dedicated to biodynamic, small-estate European varietals. Unveiled in December by Fort Greene’s Thirst Wine Merchants team, the bright and narrow Thirstbaràvin (a riff on the French phrase for wine bar, bar à vin) draws an unfussy crowd, who sample the chalkboard menu’s dozen-odd varietals (by the glass, $7 and up; more than 50 by the bottle, most between $40 and $60) while tucking into ex–Prune chef Ginevra Iverson’s comforting and, of course, wine-complementing fare.