Lawrence Osborne, author of The Accidental Connoisseur: An Irreverent Journey Through the Wine World, offers his personal (and sure to be hotly contested) selection of the East End’s finest wines, in no particular order.

After years of obscurity, the North Fork of Long Island is emerging as a promising wine region,with aspirations of greatness. But it has yet to decide what exactly it wants to be when it grows up.