Mi, 66 Madison Avenue (212-252-8888)

At Dévi, chefs Suvir Saran and Hemant Mathur take authentic Indian dishes upscale.

Fish guru Rick Moonen has left the safe harbor of Oceana to helm his own ship, RM. And he's never been sailing smoother.

Wolfgang Zwiener, a 41-year veteran of Peter Luger’s, brings the secrets of that renowned Brooklyn steakhouse to midtown.

Aji is just one of the glistening delicacies on the chef’s menu at Manhattan’s newest, and most expensive, temple to the gods of sushi.

Pipa
38 East 19th Street (212-677-2233).
Lunch, Monday through Friday 12 to 3 p.m.
Dinner, Monday through Thursday 6 p.m. to midnight;
Friday and Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday to 10 p.m.
Brunch, Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tapas, $5 to $18. V, MC, AE.

At his new, unrelentingly rustic Upper West Side Italian joint, Tom Valenti delivers equal measures of elegance, neighborly bonhomie, and bulk.

ONEc.p.s.
One Central Park South (212-583-1111).
Lunch, Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner, Monday through Sunday 5 to 11 p.m.
Appetizers, $8 to $26; entrées, $19 to $34. All major credit cards.

Christian Delouvrier is in the kitchen, and the prices are even more insane. So is Alain Ducasse’s restaurant at the Essex House now worth it?

Maybe it's my own warped perspective, but trundling around town these days on my gastronomic rounds, I've detected a subtle shift in the culinary habits of New Yorkers . . . .