I've never thought of my great-grandfather’s old house in southern New Hampshire as a family estate, but over the years, in the most literal sense of the word, I suppose that is what it’s become.

Olica
145 East 50th Street
(212-583-0001).

Ada

What’s in a room? Yujin’s overwrought décor mirrors its no-holds-barred menu, while Rocco DiSpirito has turned a bull-market dining hall into a tribute to home cooking.

Two venerable institutions get newfangled makeovers, which means improvements, missteps, and a lot of béarnaise sauce on the side.

Aquavit may have moved to a cold, bland location, but the food is as warm and imaginative as ever.

Pining for an old-school steakhouse, with rib cuts for two wheeled out on trolleys and baked Alaska set ablaze tableside? Terrance Brennan feels your hunger pains.

Jonathan Waxman is back, this time dishing up rustic Italian—bucatini, bacalao, a lemony roast chicken—at the casually hip West Village bistro Barbuto.

At his new restaurant, gifted chef Laurent Tourondel puts concept over execution.

Chinghalle
50 Gansevoort Street
(212-242-3200). Dinner, Mon.-Wed. 5:30 p.m.-1 a.m., Thurs.-Sat. to 1:30 a.m., Sun. to 11 p.m.; appetizers, $7 to $16, entrées, $15 to $21.50. All major credit cards.