Tucked among the boutiques of Madison Avenue is Kai, a thoroughly neighborhood joint -- that is, if the neighborhood were the Upper East Side of Osaka.

(Classic New York) Those silent sentries are rarely as buttoned-down as they seem. -- Guide to Classic New York

At Pace, small-restaurant masters Danny Abrams and Jimmy Bradley are thinking big.

The aquatic treats at Sushi Seki are sometimes odd and always compelling. Perfect food for a cold winter night? Not to you, perhaps, but there are diehards who say absolutely.

At Public on Elizabeth, a bold—if sometimes perplexing—exploration of Australasian cooking.

Blue Ribbon Brooklyn
280 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn (718-840-0404).

Sueños means “dreams” in Spanish. With potent margaritas and fresh south-of-the-border cuisine, the restaurant may well inspire visions.

Craft 43 East 19th Street (212-780-0880). Lunch, Mon.-Thurs. 12-2 p.m.; dinner, Sun.-Thurs. 5:30-10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. till 11 p.m. Dishes range from $6 to $32. All major credit cards.

Barbequed ribs. Gourmet steaks. Pork bellies. The city's restaurants are filled with enough platters of sumptuous, mouthwatering meat to make even Dr. Atkins happy. And with Chinese home cooking, a spate of new gourmet pizza joints, and lethal margaritas popping up all over town, it's no wonder that one thing we're really excited about spending our time -- and our cash -- on these days is good food. A highly opinionated tour of the city's best culinary establishments, from high-end to down-home.

Fiamma
206 Spring Street
(212-653-0100).