The latest variation on the theme, Bistro du Vent lacks imagination, but has its familiar charms.

At Hedeh, the focus isn’t on a gimmicky theme or a flashy design. It’s on the food.

In the meatpacking district, Ruby Foo’s Stephen Hanson combines a trattoria with a nightclub, and the mix (almost) works.

Dim Sum Go Go
5 East Broadway (212-732-0796).
Tao
42 East 58th Street (212-888-2288)

Three of the city’s most storied French restaurants bid adieu.

Say hola to Lucy Mexican Barbecue, the latest trendy Latin-themed eatery (1,001 moles!) to open at ABC Carpet & Home.

Danzón, 126 East 28th Street (212-252-1345). Dinner, Monday through Thursday 5 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 11:30 p.m., closed Sunday. Appetizers, $9 to $13; entrées, $15 to $21. All major credit cards.

Just to prove that you can't judge a boîte by its cover, Sciusci ("shoeshine" in Sicilian) offers Italian-style culinary comfort in a chilly, almost Nordic space.

With a sly wink, Upstairs at '21' targets diners seeking pure, retro luxury—and a little guilt with their pleasure.

Brasserie 8 1/2 is restaurant dining at its most Fellini-esque: a subterranean stage where the scene, not the food, is the main attraction.