You’ve already done the museum-and-monument marathon. On your next trip to Paris, rent an apartment, and give yourself time to stop and smell the farmhouse cheeses.

Who cares how authentic it is when crispy flautas with avocado crème fraîche and chicken mole poblano are that good?

Once word gets out how good chef Chris Santos’s small sharing plates can be, the darling brats may be shouldered aside by determined foodies.

Sure, it was buried by fusion, scorned by ambitious chefs, and squeezed out by foreigners -- but two impressive new restaurants, Coach House and Wild Blue, have raised the flag again, and our fussy critic salutes.

In midtown, Frank Deletrain is at home swimming with the fishes at Tropica.

Chef John Tesar tries out his reasonably priced downtown fusion on an uptown crowd.

Chef John Tesar's Wall Street gamble looks like it will pay dividends.

Chelsea boys and bohos get a cozy new canteen on Tenth.

Numbing and mysterious Brazilian tricks tumbling out of the kitchen at Caviar & Banana Brasserio have swiftly exorcised the ghost of the house that used to be Rocco’s.