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Gael Greene

December 13, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Take the Fifth

Jack's Fifth, hidden just across from the Plaza hotel, acquits itself well on all counts; also, a Vongerichten alum heats up Lower East Side eats.

December 6, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Velvet Revolution

When Warner LeRoy bought the Russian Tea Room, loyalists cringed; when he tore it down, they wept; now that it's reopened, they're lining up.

November 29, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Thalia

Thalia unleashes some much-needed star power on the theater district.

November 29, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Lift Off

Atlas successfully shoulders a young chef's grand ambitions.

November 15, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Gimme Shelter

When Mortimer's closed, the kiss-kiss rich who watered there were cast adrift; but with the opening of Swifty's, their forlorn diaspora is over.

November 8, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Howl

Is there anything Mario Batali won't do with pig jowls and pasta? At the new Lupa, named for the Roman she-wolf, carnality still rules.

November 1, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Eat to the Beat

They look like discos (one of them is a disco) yet serve major-league food: Crossbreeds Hush and Oriont redefine the dining room.

October 20, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
The Empire Strikes Back

A touch of alchemy lifts the weighty Austro-Hungarian cooking at Danube, David Bouley's velvet-swathed restaurant in TriBeCa.

July 12, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Adagio for Fins

Cello's serenity and seafood dazzle have well-heeled gourmands in delirium; earthier souls will wallow in the rustic abundance at Beacon.

July 12, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Beacon
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