- October 9, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
I’m surprised by the splendidly revved-up flavors at I-Chin. Yes, I’m sneezing and I feel peppery heat coming out of my ears. Yet I couldn’t be happier with the fiercely peppered ribbons of stir-fried chicken the waiter just snipped free of its banana-leaf girdle.
- November 20, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
- Metro Marché
Metro Marché is a courageous gambit in a corner of the Port Authority bus station, turning out amazingly good brasserie dishes at astonishingly gentle prices.
- October 30, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
- Porter House New York
The menu is a pledge of allegiance to American steakhouse familiarsósome of them sensational.
- September 25, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
- Je’Bon Noodle House
Bare-bones plain, cheap, and earnest, Je’Bon Noodles seems oblivious to our town’s bold new world of pulsating Asian eateries-on-steroids.
- April 9, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
- Wild Edibles
Quiet as an octopus scooting along the ocean bottom, Wild Edibles stuffed a mini eat-at counter and eight two-top tables into its small seafood shop on a Third Avenue stretch lusting for really good grub.
- August 28, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
New York still lacks that great Moroccan restaurantóbut until it arrives, Darna, with its modest Casbah accents and passion to please, will do.
- June 26, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
How can it be that Ron and Colleen Marnell Suhanosky have been tending this offshoot of their Nantucket restaurant for three months and it hasn’t popped up on our foodie radar?
- December 25, 2006 | Intelligencer
- Dark Night at the Circus
Sirio Maccioni frets over who can bring the stars back to Le Cirque.
- June 5, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
- Le Cirque
Le Cirque old-timers will be relieved to find crispy pig’s feet, tête de veau vinaigrette, and unabashedly retro quenelles de brochet.
- April 3, 2006
- Ask Gael
I felt a shiver of excitement at Café d’Alsace as I savored a gorgeous soup bowl of that almost abandoned classic, quenelles de brochet, rich and cleverly textured for its 21st-century revival.