La Rural, an Argentine bistro, looks a lot like its predecessor, Pampa.

Upper West Siders did not hesitate to chew out Jonathan Waxman’s uneven efforts early on at Madaleine Mae.

If splendid food comes first, with points for local-idol sightings, we’ll write off the painful din at Commerce.

Expect standing-room only at Mia Dona, given Donatella Arpaia’s East Side groupies.

Jumeirah Essex House has found a skilled veteran in chef Kerry Heffernan, now turning out his signature gougères in the new South Gate space.

I couldn’t wait to check out the St. Louis–style pork ribs at Smokin’ Q.

In no time at all we zoom over the Williamsburg Bridge to the charmingly rustic Fiore, with its spiffy service and enticing Italian home cooking.

It’s not the greatest Italian food ever (nor the cheapest; $2.75 for an appetizer?). But at Orsini’s, the tables are meant for people-watching.

The reconstituted 2nd Avenue Deli on a quiet side street is a bittersweet triumph.

Fatty Crab’s hustling impresario Zak Pelaccio is still fine-tuning his Pan-Asian riff at Chop Suey.