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Gael Greene

October 9, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
I-Chin

I’m surprised by the splendidly revved-up flavors at I-Chin. Yes, I’m sneezing and I feel peppery heat coming out of my ears. Yet I couldn’t be happier with the fiercely peppered ribbons of stir-fried chicken the waiter just snipped free of its banana-leaf girdle.

November 20, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Metro Marché

Metro Marché is a courageous gambit in a corner of the Port Authority bus station, turning out amazingly good brasserie dishes at astonishingly gentle prices.

October 30, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Porter House New York

The menu is a pledge of allegiance to American steakhouse familiarsósome of them sensational.

April 9, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Wild Edibles

Quiet as an octopus scooting along the ocean bottom, Wild Edibles stuffed a mini eat-at counter and eight two-top tables into its small seafood shop on a Third Avenue stretch lusting for really good grub.

August 28, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Darna

New York still lacks that great Moroccan restaurantóbut until it arrives, Darna, with its modest Casbah accents and passion to please, will do.

June 26, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Sfoglia

How can it be that Ron and Colleen Marnell Suhanosky have been tending this offshoot of their Nantucket restaurant for three months and it hasn’t popped up on our foodie radar?

December 25, 2006 | Intelligencer
Dark Night at the Circus

Sirio Maccioni frets over who can bring the stars back to Le Cirque.

June 5, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Le Cirque

Le Cirque old-timers will be relieved to find crispy pig’s feet, tête de veau vinaigrette, and unabashedly retro quenelles de brochet.

April 3, 2006
Ask Gael

I felt a shiver of excitement at Café d’Alsace as I savored a gorgeous soup bowl of that almost abandoned classic, quenelles de brochet, rich and cleverly textured for its 21st-century revival.

April 24, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Crema Restaurante

Julieta Ballesteros has graduated from teeny Mexicana Mama in the village to a narrow earth-toned spot of her own.

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