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Gael Greene

June 12, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Dressler

The scarred tile floors are real, and the abundant hills of tantalizing, gently priced food are real, too, a joy in this era of foam and froth. But everything else at the new Dressler is whimsy.

May 8, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Dona

I worry that the drive to reinvent the octopus has dizzied Michael Psilakis, the inspired young chef-owner of the Upper West Side’s Onera, since Donatella Arpaia lured him east to co-reign at her new, handsomely outfitted Dona.

October 3, 2005 | Ask Gael
Give Me a New Reason to Go Downtown

New York-raised Sanchez has his own Mexican signature, distinct from Mom's.

November 19, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Dévi

The team that created the brilliant and refined tasting menu at Dévi that quickly became a smash hit is back, having bought out the boss.

February 26, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Fireside

Fans of Sam DeMarco’s comfort food at the restaurant First, and later District, will want to know he’s back from a post-9/11 midlife crisis and romantic sabbatical in 2004.

June 19, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Central Park Boathouse Restaurant

In the past, a Boathouse table was basically about inhaling natureónever mind the food. Today the kitchen sends out thrillingly pure crab cakes, and a lush salmon-and-oyster tartare with a dribble of caviar.

October 31, 2005 | Ask Gael
I Need an Old-World Cocoon for Grandma's Lunch

Aging debs from the nabe, capitalists in bespoke suits, even Tony Blair hosting a dinner for fourteen feel like they never left home in these handsome and expensive trappings.

November 8, 1999 | The Insatiable Critic
Howl

Is there anything Mario Batali won't do with pig jowls and pasta? At the new Lupa, named for the Roman she-wolf, carnality still rules.

October 26, 1998 | The Insatiable Critic
The Joy of Excess

If there really can be too much of a good thing, then breakfast at Norma's ought to be against the law.

June 8, 1998 | The Insatiable Critic
Tropica

In midtown, Frank Deletrain is at home swimming with the fishes at Tropica.

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