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A duo of fine-dining veterans, burned out by the city and smitten with Long Island’s rich local harvest, have made the brand-new North Fork Table & Inn an imperative year-round detour in a neighborhood that claims to be starved for quality.

How can it be that Ron and Colleen Marnell Suhanosky have been tending this offshoot of their Nantucket restaurant for three months and it hasn’t popped up on our foodie radar?

In the past, a Boathouse table was basically about inhaling nature—never mind the food. Today the kitchen sends out thrillingly pure crab cakes, and a lush salmon-and-oyster tartare with a dribble of caviar.

The scarred tile floors are real, and the abundant hills of tantalizing, gently priced food are real, too, a joy in this era of foam and froth. But everything else at the new Dressler is whimsy.

Le Cirque old-timers will be relieved to find crispy pig’s feet, tête de veau vinaigrette, and unabashedly retro quenelles de brochet.

With Linda Japngie, its fourth chef in just eighteen months, in situ, the quirky little bistro Barmarché picks up the quickening pulse of this neighborhood just east of Soho.

155 E. 42 St., nr. Third Ave. 212-953-2000

I worry that the drive to reinvent the octopus has dizzied Michael Psilakis, the inspired young chef-owner of the Upper West Side’s Onera, since Donatella Arpaia lured him east to co-reign at her new, handsomely outfitted Dona.

Julieta Ballesteros has graduated from teeny Mexicana Mama in the village to a narrow earth-toned spot of her own.

All those years chef-partner Andrew Carmellini spent pleasing Daniel at Café Boulud inform everything that’s wonderful right now at the new A Voce.