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ARCHIVES

The Insatiable Critic Archive

May 11, 1998
Eating by the Numbers

Whaddaya want on your pizza? Peking duck, smoked salmon, and tandoori chicken at One3 in the Village prove it’s a small world after all.

May 31, 1999
Pearl Oyster Bar

In the Village, sublime lobster roll is worth the wait at Pearl Oyster Bar.

June 15, 1998
Morel High Ground

Rémi Lauvand takes the range at TriBeCa's Montrachet, bringing memories of France (and a superior $19.98 lunch) worthy of the house Burgundies.

June 28, 1999
Maison
November 1, 1999
Eat to the Beat

They look like discos (one of them is a disco) yet serve major-league food: Crossbreeds Hush and Oriont redefine the dining room.

June 26, 2000
AZ You Like It

Chef Patricia Yeo's gorgeous and gutsy global shenanigans bring new luster to 17th Street; Revel seems a bit greedy, even for the Upper East Side.

June 28, 1999
Feret at Last

Dipping into France's nurturing "cuisine de maman" at two new brasseries and a pair of bistros refreshes a gourmand's fusion-lashed soul.

May 29, 2000
Commune

Matthew Kenney's Commune may be scalded by its own heat.

April 26, 1999
Double Your Pleasure

Now that Daniel Boulard has opened a $10 million celebration of the seasons just eleven blocks south of Café Boulud, his real rival may turn out to be himself.

October 19, 1998
Unfinished Symphony

La Fourchette is a lonely pioneer, a culinary outpost on the farthest edge of the Upper East Side -- and it's this close to becoming the season's first instant classic.

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