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The Insatiable Critic Archive

October 19, 1998
Unfinished Symphony

La Fourchette is a lonely pioneer, a culinary outpost on the farthest edge of the Upper East Side -- and it's this close to becoming the season's first instant classic.

July 20, 1998
Plantain Hollywood

Latino stars, salsa swingers, Yankees in mufti, and a trickle of downtown swells fuel the heat at Jimmy's Bronx Cafe, home of cosmic soup and Godzilla lobsters.

June 22, 1998
Good in Bread

The Bromberg brothers yearned to play with flour. All it took was yeast and a resurrected oven to make the Blue Ribbon Bakery rise in the West Village.

June 15, 1998
Morel High Ground

Rémi Lauvand takes the range at TriBeCa's Montrachet, bringing memories of France (and a superior $19.98 lunch) worthy of the house Burgundies.

June 8, 1998
Next Up at the Plate

Tom Valenti unpacks his lamb shanks on the Upper East Side.

June 8, 1998

In midtown, Frank Deletrain is at home swimming with the fishes at Tropica.

June 1, 1998
Divine Oeuvre-kill

The Waldorf's Peacock Alley struts and stumbles to the strains of a harp; Provence gets a workout at Jean Lafitte on West 58th.

May 18, 1998
Trees Chic

Hungry? Make a dash for green acres. American Park brings fusion fuss to the Battery, and there's a stylish new tack at Central Park's Boathouse.

May 11, 1998
Eating by the Numbers

Whaddaya want on your pizza? Peking duck, smoked salmon, and tandoori chicken at One3 in the Village prove it’s a small world after all.

May 4, 1998
Holy Mackerel

Here we go again -- overnight, BondSt in NoHo is hotter than wasabi, the place to cross chopsticks with the neighborhood’s parading mantises.

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