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The Insatiable Critic Archive

October 22, 2007
Pamplona

Pamplona is chef-owner Alex Ureña’s bow to reality.

October 8, 2007
Toloache

Toloache is an earnest Mexican bistro yearning for the big time.

October 1, 2007
Fiamma

Lured from his five-diamond (AAA) cocoon at the Ritz-Carlton in Tysons Corner, new chef-partner Fabio Trabocchi delivers complex dazzle at Stephen Hanson’s Fiamma.

September 17, 2007
Accademia di Vino

Accademia di Vino could be just what the neighborhood was waiting for: a comfy, laid-back spot to order a few $4 antipasti, a seriously al dente pasta to share, and wine by the glass.

August 27, 2007
Southern Hospitality

Probably you Justin Timberlake fans will haunt Southern Hospitality hoping to spot your crush sipping Mountain Dew in a back booth of this raffish joint he’s fronting.

August 20, 2007
L’Impero

In Manhattan’s spring shuffle of three-star toques, Fiamma’s Michael White now reigns in departed chef Scott Conant’s three-star kitchen at L’Impero.

August 13, 2007
Oceana

It wouldn’t be disappointing if Oceana’s newest chef, Ben Pollinger, were a recognizable disciple of his mentor, the driven and passionate Christian Delouvrier.

July 16, 2007
Park Avenue Summer

No surprise at all that Park Avenue Summer feels so summery—shiny white panels glowing, tall reeds and grasses dividing the room in a smart AvroKO design.

June 11, 2007
Aurora Soho

A glance at the menu reveals the grand ambition of Aurora Soho.

June 4, 2007
Provence

With its new wardrobe of sunny Provençal prints and the magical vernal blooming of its sheltered garden, Provence at the age of twenty has never looked lovelier.

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