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The Insatiable Critic Archive

November 20, 2006
Metro Marché

Metro Marché is a courageous gambit in a corner of the Port Authority bus station, turning out amazingly good brasserie dishes at astonishingly gentle prices.

October 30, 2006
Porter House New York

The menu is a pledge of allegiance to American steakhouse familiarsósome of them sensational.

April 9, 2007
Wild Edibles

Quiet as an octopus scooting along the ocean bottom, Wild Edibles stuffed a mini eat-at counter and eight two-top tables into its small seafood shop on a Third Avenue stretch lusting for really good grub.

August 28, 2006
Darna

New York still lacks that great Moroccan restaurantóbut until it arrives, Darna, with its modest Casbah accents and passion to please, will do.

June 26, 2006
Sfoglia

How can it be that Ron and Colleen Marnell Suhanosky have been tending this offshoot of their Nantucket restaurant for three months and it hasn’t popped up on our foodie radar?

June 5, 2006
Le Cirque

Le Cirque old-timers will be relieved to find crispy pig’s feet, tête de veau vinaigrette, and unabashedly retro quenelles de brochet.

June 12, 2006
Dressler

The scarred tile floors are real, and the abundant hills of tantalizing, gently priced food are real, too, a joy in this era of foam and froth. But everything else at the new Dressler is whimsy.

May 8, 2006
Dona

I worry that the drive to reinvent the octopus has dizzied Michael Psilakis, the inspired young chef-owner of the Upper West Side’s Onera, since Donatella Arpaia lured him east to co-reign at her new, handsomely outfitted Dona.

November 19, 2007
Dévi

The team that created the brilliant and refined tasting menu at Dévi that quickly became a smash hit is back, having bought out the boss.

February 26, 2007
Fireside

Fans of Sam DeMarco’s comfort food at the restaurant First, and later District, will want to know he’s back from a post-9/11 midlife crisis and romantic sabbatical in 2004.

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