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The Insatiable Critic Archive

February 5, 2007
Hurapan Kitchen

I love this beautifully presented Thai food by father-and-son team Taweewat and Dejthana Hurapan.

January 15, 2007
Kobe Club

So unloved Mix, twice unhappily revised, reemerges as Kobe Club, and the kitchen is already impressive.

December 25, 2006
Klee Brasserie

Marinate an Austrian in the culture of New York eating for a while, and don’t be surprised if he comes up with a menu like chef Daniel Angerer’s (ex of Fresh) at his new Klee Brasserie.

December 11, 2006
Gordon Ramsay at the London

"Most everything else is a work-in-progress.

December 4, 2006
The Russian Tea Room

A serious chef reigns in the kitchen of the optimistically resurrected Russian Tea Room.

November 20, 2006
Metro Marché

Metro Marché is a courageous gambit in a corner of the Port Authority bus station, turning out amazingly good brasserie dishes at astonishingly gentle prices.

October 30, 2006
Porter House New York

The menu is a pledge of allegiance to American steakhouse familiars—some of them sensational.

October 16, 2006
Café Gray “Brasserie”

For deliciously ostentatious swank that’s infinitely cheaper than a status handbag, you must try the $85 black-truffle pizza on the new “Brasserie” menu in the bar at Café Gray.

October 9, 2006

I’m surprised by the splendidly revved-up flavors at I-Chin. Yes, I’m sneezing and I feel peppery heat coming out of my ears. Yet I couldn’t be happier with the fiercely peppered ribbons of stir-fried chicken the waiter just snipped free of its banana-leaf girdle.

October 2, 2006

Will a younger crowd be drawn, as chef-owner Terrance Brennan hopes, by this new stripped-down elegance (sedate if not soporific), new sound (Diana Krall instead of Pavarotti), and new pricing ($64 for two courses) from the updated menu?

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