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The Insatiable Critic Archive

February 4, 2008
Chop Suey

Fatty Crab’s hustling impresario Zak Pelaccio is still fine-tuning his Pan-Asian riff at Chop Suey.

February 11, 2008
2nd Avenue Deli

The reconstituted 2nd Avenue Deli on a quiet side street is a bittersweet triumph.

October 2, 2006

Will a younger crowd be drawn, as chef-owner Terrance Brennan hopes, by this new stripped-down elegance (sedate if not soporific), new sound (Diana Krall instead of Pavarotti), and new pricing ($64 for two courses) from the updated menu?

May 8, 2000
Make a Fish

With seafood-friendly Esca, Molto Mario and Joe B. have extended their winning streak to four; at Avra, too, there's gold in them thar gills.

October 13, 2008

In yet another premature midlife crisis, Compass has redesigned itself for the third time and emerged looking good.

August 13, 2007

It wouldn’t be disappointing if Oceana’s newest chef, Ben Pollinger, were a recognizable disciple of his mentor, the driven and passionate Christian Delouvrier.

September 25, 2006
Je’Bon Noodle House

Bare-bones plain, cheap, and earnest, Je’Bon Noodles seems oblivious to our town’s bold new world of pulsating Asian eateries-on-steroids.

September 22, 2008
Socarrat Paella Bar

This could be the best paella I can remember.

February 25, 2008

In no time at all we zoom over the Williamsburg Bridge to the charmingly rustic Fiore, with its spiffy service and enticing Italian home cooking.

July 16, 2007
Park Avenue Summer

No surprise at all that Park Avenue Summer feels so summery—shiny white panels glowing, tall reeds and grasses dividing the room in a smart AvroKO design.

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