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The Insatiable Critic Archive

September 25, 2006
Je’Bon Noodle House

Bare-bones plain, cheap, and earnest, Je’Bon Noodles seems oblivious to our town’s bold new world of pulsating Asian eateries-on-steroids.

August 28, 2006

New York still lacks that great Moroccan restaurantóbut until it arrives, Darna, with its modest Casbah accents and passion to please, will do.

August 10, 2006
The North Fork Table & Inn

A duo of fine-dining veterans, burned out by the city and smitten with Long Island’s rich local harvest, have made the brand-new North Fork Table & Inn an imperative year-round detour in a neighborhood that claims to be starved for quality.

June 26, 2006

How can it be that Ron and Colleen Marnell Suhanosky have been tending this offshoot of their Nantucket restaurant for three months and it hasn’t popped up on our foodie radar?

June 19, 2006
Central Park Boathouse Restaurant

In the past, a Boathouse table was basically about inhaling natureónever mind the food. Today the kitchen sends out thrillingly pure crab cakes, and a lush salmon-and-oyster tartare with a dribble of caviar.

June 12, 2006

The scarred tile floors are real, and the abundant hills of tantalizing, gently priced food are real, too, a joy in this era of foam and froth. But everything else at the new Dressler is whimsy.

June 5, 2006
Le Cirque

Le Cirque old-timers will be relieved to find crispy pig’s feet, tête de veau vinaigrette, and unabashedly retro quenelles de brochet.

May 8, 2006

I worry that the drive to reinvent the octopus has dizzied Michael Psilakis, the inspired young chef-owner of the Upper West Side’s Onera, since Donatella Arpaia lured him east to co-reign at her new, handsomely outfitted Dona.

July 24, 2000
Deep Knish

Chopped-liver king Shelly Fireman decides to add a touch of sensuous finesse to his earthy repertoire; Larry Forgione brings a touch of class to Times Square.

June 26, 2000
AZ You Like It

Chef Patricia Yeo's gorgeous and gutsy global shenanigans bring new luster to 17th Street; Revel seems a bit greedy, even for the Upper East Side.

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