Chef John Tesar's Wall Street gamble looks like it will pay dividends.

Chelsea boys and bohos get a cozy new canteen on Tenth.

The Bromberg brothers yearned to play with flour. All it took was yeast and a resurrected oven to make the Blue Ribbon Bakery rise in the West Village.

Joe's . . . Again spices memory with ego as a new team tries comfort food and fancy tricks to jolly an old Village joint back to life.

Chopped-liver king Shelly Fireman decides to add a touch of sensuous finesse to his earthy repertoire; Larry Forgione brings a touch of class to Times Square.

Hungry? Make a dash for green acres. American Park brings fusion fuss to the Battery, and there's a stylish new tack at Central Park's Boathouse.

The Waldorf's Peacock Alley struts and stumbles to the strains of a harp; Provence gets a workout at Jean Lafitte on West 58th.

At last, Jean-Louis Palladin has begun soothing his Gotham itch. But his new Palladin still needs work to satisfy our Jean-Louis itch.

Jack's Fifth, hidden just across from the Plaza hotel, acquits itself well on all counts; also, a Vongerichten alum heats up Lower East Side eats.

Don't even try to fathom the menu at ABC Carpet's rustic Colina. Just put yourself at chef Jonathan Waxman's mercy, and let your seams pop.