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The Insatiable Critic Archive

December 14, 1998
Eating by the Numbers

Whaddaya want on your pizza? Peking duck, smoked salmon, and tandoori chicken at One3 in the Village prove it’s a small world after all.

January 10, 2000
One Man's Frites

We'll always have Paris, as long as Keith McNally keeps obsessively re-creating his dream French bistro, true to the last faux nicotine stain.

October 20, 1999
The Empire Strikes Back

A touch of alchemy lifts the weighty Austro-Hungarian cooking at Danube, David Bouley's velvet-swathed restaurant in TriBeCa.

November 29, 1999
Lift Off

Atlas successfully shoulders a young chef's grand ambitions.

November 15, 1999
Gimme Shelter

When Mortimer's closed, the kiss-kiss rich who watered there were cast adrift; but with the opening of Swifty's, their forlorn diaspora is over.

July 12, 1999
Beacon
November 29, 1999
Thalia

Thalia unleashes some much-needed star power on the theater district.

June 8, 1998
Next Up at the Plate

Tom Valenti unpacks his lamb shanks on the Upper East Side.

May 10, 1999
Old Wine, New Money

Zoë, an old favorite in SoHo, gets a new chef, a new menu, and scary new prices -- but even tightwads may find themselves unzipping their wallets.

May 4, 1998
Holy Mackerel

Here we go again -- overnight, BondSt in NoHo is hotter than wasabi, the place to cross chopsticks with the neighborhood’s parading mantises.

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