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The Insatiable Critic Archive

November 8, 1999
Howl

Is there anything Mario Batali won't do with pig jowls and pasta? At the new Lupa, named for the Roman she-wolf, carnality still rules.

November 1, 1999
Eat to the Beat

They look like discos (one of them is a disco) yet serve major-league food: Crossbreeds Hush and Oriont redefine the dining room.

October 20, 1999
The Empire Strikes Back

A touch of alchemy lifts the weighty Austro-Hungarian cooking at Danube, David Bouley's velvet-swathed restaurant in TriBeCa.

July 12, 1999
Adagio for Fins

Cello's serenity and seafood dazzle have well-heeled gourmands in delirium; earthier souls will wallow in the rustic abundance at Beacon.

July 12, 1999
Beacon
June 28, 1999
Feret at Last

Dipping into France's nurturing "cuisine de maman" at two new brasseries and a pair of bistros refreshes a gourmand's fusion-lashed soul.

June 28, 1999
Maison
June 28, 1999
Park Bistro
June 21, 1999
Second Thyme Around

In two old familiar spaces near Bloomingdale's, Cibi-Cibi courts the youth vote with excess decibels, while Latin sizzle is the draw at Bolívar.

June 14, 1999
Wall-to-Wall Italy

Don't even try to fathom the menu at ABC Carpet's rustic Colina. Just put yourself at chef Jonathan Waxman's mercy, and let your seams pop.

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