Fabio Trabocchi brings old-school complexity to Fiamma, and comes up with more hits than misses.

Allen & Delancey brings classical cooking to the Lower East Side.

The team that created the brilliant and refined tasting menu at Dévi that quickly became a smash hit is back, having bought out the boss.

Park Avenue Autumn takes timely dining to the extreme.

Irving Mill seems to be flaunting the genes of Gramercy Tavern in the autumn-farm-stand pumpkin display at the door, the vintage touches of its vast tavernlike space, and that familiar genteel and friendly style of service.

A Tía Pol spinoff spurns the clichés of the tapas bar, but embraces its spirit (well, except for the slushies).

Sotohiro Kosugi gets inventive with seafood at Soto, while Josh DeChellis overfries at BarFry.

Laurent Tourondel joins the ingredients-first movement, with tasty results.

Two new Italian joints hew to a familiar contemporary formula. And both are pretty good.

Two new Italians try the crostini-and-crudi route, with varying success.