Dovetail is chef John Fraser’s breakout restaurant and a rare Upper West Side find.

Bar Blanc is the latest watering hole with restaurant-caliber cooking.

Fatty Crab’s hustling impresario Zak Pelaccio is still fine-tuning his Pan-Asian riff at Chop Suey.

A West Village anti–wine bar breaks away from the panini pack.

If there is cachet in having an entrance even the average Mensa candidate can’t find, the new Dovetail has it.

At Smith’s, Danny Abrams delivers appetizingly dainty fare. Just don’t expect any elbow room.

Coming after “I’m not your bitch, bitch” fame on Bravo’s Top Chef, chef-consultant Dave Martin’s new “think bistro, dine casual” restaurant, Crave on 42nd, lacks some heft.

Irving Mill borrows heavily from Danny Meyer, but in the end, it’s no Gramercy Tavern.

In no time at all, East Villagers have discovered the Smith with its good, honest el cheapo grub.

Primehouse New York indulges some steakhouse gimmicks, but the meat is straight-ahead great.