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Food Archive

October 9, 2006
Restaurant Openings & Buzz

Week of October 9, 2006: La Lunetta, Noo Na, Metro Marché, and Pasita.

October 9, 2006
I-Chin

I’m surprised by the splendidly revved-up flavors at I-Chin. Yes, I’m sneezing and I feel peppery heat coming out of my ears. Yet I couldn’t be happier with the fiercely peppered ribbons of stir-fried chicken the waiter just snipped free of its banana-leaf girdle.

October 9, 2006
Purple Eggplant

Although it’s virtually fat-free and low in calories, when cooked in oil, eggplant absorbs fat like a sumo wrestler at an all-you-can-eat buffet. Which might explain why we find it so delicious.

October 9, 2006
Something Borrowed, Something New

Cobble Hill’s new Italian wine bar might be a bit derivative, but who’s complaining?

October 9, 2006
Heavy Hitters

Why wait till it’s cold? Any drop in temperature, however slight, is a good excuse to tuck into the hearty cooking you avoided all summer.

October 2, 2006
Object of Desire
October 2, 2006
Make Gno Mistake

When an intrepid eater of our acquaintance turned to us one recent night while dining at the East Village restaurant Bianca, scrunched up her nose, and admonished, sotto voce, These are the worst gnocchi I’ve ever tasted we knew it was time for a pasta primer.

October 2, 2006
Restaurant Openings & Buzz

Week of October 2, 2006: Porter House New York, STK, Fika. Plus, chocolate tortilla chips.

October 2, 2006
Picholine

Will a younger crowd be drawn, as chef-owner Terrance Brennan hopes, by this new stripped-down elegance (sedate if not soporific), new sound (Diana Krall instead of Pavarotti), and new pricing ($64 for two courses) from the updated menu?

October 2, 2006
Black Mint

Black mint isn’t an herb gone goth, but rather a type of peppermint that’s commonly used for tea and actually turns out to have more of a dark-purplish or brownish cast around the stem.