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Wander Off in Maui


2. Where to Eat

Pick up homemade jams and hand-painted coconuts, as well the award-winning banana bread, at Hana Farms.  

Sample the day's catch from local fishermen at the romantic Mama's Fish House and Inn. The large restaurant in Kuau Cove, just off the beach on the road between Paia and Haiku, is pretty much the only place on the north shore of Maui that nods to tropical conventions like mai tais with paper umbrellas.

Watch a bicycle-powered blender whip your smoothie at Laulima Farms (HC 170 Kipahulu; 808-248-8664) in Kipahulu,about twenty miles from Hana. Arrive promptly at 2 p.m. on Saturday to take a tour of the farm.

Dress down in the bar area of the Hotel Hana-Maui, where you can dine on the same menu of fresh fish and organically grown vegetables served in the Ka'uiki restaurant but sans suit jackets and collared shirts.

Snack along the Hana Highway, the largest road in East Maui, where locals make a living easier than anyone else on the planet: They just set up food stands with lunches and fresh fruit at the bottom of their driveways. Between mile markers 27 and 28, Glen Simkins (a.k.a. "Coconut Glen") serves an island variation of Cracker Jacks (strips of candied coconut replace the popcorn) and vegan coconut-milk ice cream. The Hana Farms stand, at mile marker 31, won the town's blind banana-bread taste test.

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