- January 23, 2006
- Is it Gilt or just plain brass?
I have little tolerance for dinner as a cataclysmic life experience. But bad-boy chef Paul Liebrandt promised to soften his edge at Gilt in the freshly restored hallows of the departed Le Cirque 2000.
- April 3, 2006
- Ask Gael
I felt a shiver of excitement at Café d’Alsace as I savored a gorgeous soup bowl of that almost abandoned classic, quenelles de brochet, rich and cleverly textured for its 21st-century revival.
- October 3, 2005
- Give Me a New Reason to Go Downtown
New York-raised Sanchez has his own Mexican signature, distinct from Mom's.
- September 26, 2005
- I'm Bored With All Those Copycat Trattorias
It looks like just another unassuming storefront on a shabby stretch of Ninth, but you get a hint of the unabashed ambition of Roberto Passon as soon as you see his ravioli.
- October 31, 2005
- I Need an Old-World Cocoon for Grandma's Lunch
Aging debs from the nabe, capitalists in bespoke suits, even Tony Blair hosting a dinner for fourteen feel like they never left home in these handsome and expensive trappings.
- December 5, 2005
- Stop the (Food) World, I Want to Get Off
If you hunger for constancy and dignity, it’s time for Café Boulud.
- December 12, 2005
- Can We Trust the West Side Renaissance?
Local grape nuts may cheerfully surrender to the provocative wine pairings in flights of two-ounce tastes at Pair of 8’s, an ambitious new launch on Amsterdam.
- May 26, 2005
- Where Are All the Pretty People?
Once word gets out how good chef Chris Santos’s small sharing plates can be, the darling brats may be shouldered aside by determined foodies.
- February 7, 2005
- Compass Yet Again? Can I Trust You?
Chefs and pâtissiers come and go, soar and crash, at Compass, where desperate powers that be struggle to get it right.
- October 24, 2005
- Desk Drudgery Is Getting Me Down.
Nibble the life of leisure at the Garden Court Cafe.