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Ask Gael Archive

April 3, 2006
Ask Gael

I felt a shiver of excitement at Café d’Alsace as I savored a gorgeous soup bowl of that almost abandoned classic, quenelles de brochet, rich and cleverly textured for its 21st-century revival.

February 20, 2006
Cocoa-flavored gnocchi? Do I dare?

I admit I had little hope for that gnocchi, or for fried cod over lemon marmalade, or fennel salad with licorice-spiked olive oil, bold moves on the menu at brand-new Spiga.

February 13, 2006
Is it the real or discount David Burke at Bloomie's?

Taste the mellow green-apple lobster bisque and those fabulous Asiago truffle fries and you’ll believe the real David Burke has been lurking nearby in this stainless-steel, smartly checkered canteen.

February 6, 2006
We’re hungry for comfort on the Upper East Side.

The narrow storefront that was Butterfield 81 has always catered to the neighborhood, and that’s Francesco Antonucci’s mind-set here in a room that is stripped-down and simple.

January 23, 2006
Is it Gilt or just plain brass?

I have little tolerance for dinner as a cataclysmic life experience. But bad-boy chef Paul Liebrandt promised to soften his edge at Gilt in the freshly restored hallows of the departed Le Cirque 2000.

December 26, 2005
I Wouldn’t Mind a Dose of Vintage Hotel Classic

The city’s almost manic effervescence has invaded the once-staid Waldorf, unleashing a jangle of energy in the lounge of the newly reorganized Peacock Alley.

December 19, 2005
And What's a Barbounia?

It’s a small, not all that remarkable Mediterranean fish, but the restaurant that has taken its name is making waves already.

December 12, 2005
Can We Trust the West Side Renaissance?

Local grape nuts may cheerfully surrender to the provocative wine pairings in flights of two-ounce tastes at Pair of 8’s, an ambitious new launch on Amsterdam.

December 5, 2005
Stop the (Food) World, I Want to Get Off

If you hunger for constancy and dignity, it’s time for Café Boulud.

November 7, 2005
How Can You Tell It's the New Harlem?

"Born, bred, and buttered in Harlem," as Melba Wilson likes to put it.

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