- April 3, 2006
- Ask Gael
I felt a shiver of excitement at Café d’Alsace as I savored a gorgeous soup bowl of that almost abandoned classic, quenelles de brochet, rich and cleverly textured for its 21st-century revival.
- February 20, 2006
- Cocoa-flavored gnocchi? Do I dare?
I admit I had little hope for that gnocchi, or for fried cod over lemon marmalade, or fennel salad with licorice-spiked olive oil, bold moves on the menu at brand-new Spiga.
- February 13, 2006
- Is it the real or discount David Burke at Bloomie's?
Taste the mellow green-apple lobster bisque and those fabulous Asiago truffle fries and you’ll believe the real David Burke has been lurking nearby in this stainless-steel, smartly checkered canteen.
- February 6, 2006
- We’re hungry for comfort on the Upper East Side.
The narrow storefront that was Butterfield 81 has always catered to the neighborhood, and that’s Francesco Antonucci’s mind-set here in a room that is stripped-down and simple.
- January 23, 2006
- Is it Gilt or just plain brass?
I have little tolerance for dinner as a cataclysmic life experience. But bad-boy chef Paul Liebrandt promised to soften his edge at Gilt in the freshly restored hallows of the departed Le Cirque 2000.
- December 26, 2005
- I Wouldn’t Mind a Dose of Vintage Hotel Classic
The city’s almost manic effervescence has invaded the once-staid Waldorf, unleashing a jangle of energy in the lounge of the newly reorganized Peacock Alley.
- December 19, 2005
- And What's a Barbounia?
It’s a small, not all that remarkable Mediterranean fish, but the restaurant that has taken its name is making waves already.
- December 12, 2005
- Can We Trust the West Side Renaissance?
Local grape nuts may cheerfully surrender to the provocative wine pairings in flights of two-ounce tastes at Pair of 8’s, an ambitious new launch on Amsterdam.
- December 5, 2005
- Stop the (Food) World, I Want to Get Off
If you hunger for constancy and dignity, it’s time for Café Boulud.
- November 7, 2005
- How Can You Tell It's the New Harlem?
"Born, bred, and buttered in Harlem," as Melba Wilson likes to put it.