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Ask Gael Archive

January 23, 2006
Is it Gilt or just plain brass?

I have little tolerance for dinner as a cataclysmic life experience. But bad-boy chef Paul Liebrandt promised to soften his edge at Gilt in the freshly restored hallows of the departed Le Cirque 2000.

April 3, 2006
Ask Gael

I felt a shiver of excitement at Café d’Alsace as I savored a gorgeous soup bowl of that almost abandoned classic, quenelles de brochet, rich and cleverly textured for its 21st-century revival.

October 3, 2005
Give Me a New Reason to Go Downtown

New York-raised Sanchez has his own Mexican signature, distinct from Mom's.

September 26, 2005
I'm Bored With All Those Copycat Trattorias

It looks like just another unassuming storefront on a shabby stretch of Ninth, but you get a hint of the unabashed ambition of Roberto Passon as soon as you see his ravioli.

October 31, 2005
I Need an Old-World Cocoon for Grandma's Lunch

Aging debs from the nabe, capitalists in bespoke suits, even Tony Blair hosting a dinner for fourteen feel like they never left home in these handsome and expensive trappings.

December 5, 2005
Stop the (Food) World, I Want to Get Off

If you hunger for constancy and dignity, it’s time for Café Boulud.

December 12, 2005
Can We Trust the West Side Renaissance?

Local grape nuts may cheerfully surrender to the provocative wine pairings in flights of two-ounce tastes at Pair of 8’s, an ambitious new launch on Amsterdam.

May 26, 2005
Where Are All the Pretty People?

Once word gets out how good chef Chris Santos’s small sharing plates can be, the darling brats may be shouldered aside by determined foodies.

February 7, 2005
Compass Yet Again? Can I Trust You?

Chefs and pâtissiers come and go, soar and crash, at Compass, where desperate powers that be struggle to get it right.

October 24, 2005
Desk Drudgery Is Getting Me Down.

Nibble the life of leisure at the Garden Court Cafe.

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