April 29, 2008 Issue
Fashion has always been an industry that champions the singular: the one designer whom all others appear to emulate; the individual model who epitomizes contemporary beauty. But as much as the fashion world loves to single out, it also loves the blurry, unfocused excitement of the collections. The fall 2008 collections were filled with ideas both promising and worrying, unifying and contradictory, inspired and exhausting.
Sometimes preshow tension gets so thick in the photographers’ stands that fights break out over who sits and stands where.
Some designers relish the postshow happy lap. Others can barely be coaxed to wave. A lexicon of farewells.
The most powerful fashion critic in the world thinks eliminating the runways, and even her job, wouldn’t be such a bad thing.
Model Ali Stephens out-walked the competition.
These dewy-faced eye-catchers were the most favored of fall.
Not everybody makes it. Forty runway candidates audition for casting agent James Scully.
The ambitious model is in the tricky transitional phase between "rising star" and "established face."
Spindle legs, visible ribs, toothpick arms. This is the new male ideal? Somewhere, Hedi Slimane is smiling.
The last few hours before Maria Cornejo’s show are not, by any stretch of the imagination, glamorous.
London’s Fashion Week is disorganized, late, and raucous. More Champagne, please!
By knowing just where to put a brooch, Katie Grand glosses a designer’s collection.
Hollywood stylist turned designer L’Wren Scott doesn’t need 400 people at her show.
A coiffure-meister’s thought process.
Some mink and fox is typical for fall. This time, it was more than some.
Magnum photographer Christopher Anderson captures the weeks' gorgeous moments.
Even after the models have changed into jeans, the tents have been disassembled, and the designers have left, a fashion show doesn’t really end.
The force that is Karl Lagerfeld powers through Chanel’s preshow prep like a black-clad dervish.
Harold Koda explains the design legacy of a man more known for his Studio 54 time.
Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière sharpened every idea he touched, starting with the little black dress.
Some celebrity-and-designer front-row matchups work to everybody’s disadvantage.
Wearable soufflés, logic-defying hats, attention-grabbing legwear, and more.
Head-to-toe black, trailing lace, ominous accessories.
Everywhere the same message: plush and plusher.
In a season of rethought classics, the little black dress comes back.
New proportions (short or long jackets) and materials refresh the androgynous favorite.
In its new incarnation, the white shirt loses all prior associations.
Fall’s metallics glow dimly, not with Vegas glare.
... doesn’t mean it’s fussy.
Not every idea is destined to dominate.
Fall’s colors sound like a walk through the woods in October.
Sparkly surfaces put pants into contention for most favored eveningwear consideration.
Maybe not every guy will rush to add a fluffy fur coat to the closet, but the option is there.
Velvet suits cut narrow conjured the country gentleman who’s been listening to Exile on Main St.
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