Top Five

Meatballs

For years, the humble meatball lived quietly in the shadow of its limelight-hogging partner, content to play Teller to spaghetti's Penn. But today's meatballs are strutting their own stuff and embarking on solo careers.

By Rob Patronite

1. Ápizz

Unabashedly big and baked in a clay pot with tomato "gravy" and ricotta; they're lusciously soft and -- dare we say -- spicy. (217 Eldridge Street; 212-253-9199.)

2. Il Gattopardo

Mayor Bloomberg should rename 54th Street from Fifth to Sixth Avenue Meatball Row: On the corner of Fifth, there are rib-sticking German frikadellen from the Hallo Berlin street cart; midblock, it's Swedish-meatball heaven at Aquavit, and a few doors down, our favorite, Il Gattopardo's thyme-scented veal-and-beef version, wrapped like a minimalist stuffed cabbage in a single Savoy-cabbage leaf. (33 West 54th Street; 212-246-0412.)

3. Centolire

Chicken and ricotta make these light and airy puck-shaped polpette, served in an irresistible creamy tomato sauce, the welterweight champions of the meatball world. (1167 Madison Avenue, at 85th Street; 212-734-7711.)

4. Molyvos

It's been said that meatballs aren't even Italian. Maybe a Greek started that rumor. Try Molyvos's terrific meze meatballs made with lamb and bulgur and served with tzatziki, and decide whose are better. (871 Seventh Avenue, near 55th Street; 212-582-7500.)

5. Merge

Meatball heros are notoriously messy. Merge's bar-menu version smooshed in a press is as neat as a cucumber sandwich and much tastier. (142 West 10th Street; 212-691-7757.)