(Photo: Courtesy of DeRobertis Cafe)

1. Lexington Candy Shop
Serving ice-cream sodas, frosted malts, and diner food since 1925. Even the Cokes are made the old-fashioned way (a shot of syrup followed by a spritz of seltzer). (1226 Lexington Avenue, at 83rd Street; 212-288-0057.)

2. Kimberly’s Sweet Shop
On this Carroll Gardens strip, the barbershops have poles that didn’t come from flea markets, and this small dime store sells crayons and sodas. Park yourself on a vintage stool and slurp down the winning entry from the 2002 Brooklyn Egg Cream Extravaganza. (575 Henry Street, Brooklyn; 718-855-3129.)

3. Be-Speckled Trout General Store
A recently installed soda fountain helps to re-create the atmosphere of a twenties confectionery. Brightly colored sweets, retro decorations, and cherry-lime rickeys add up to more class than kitsch. (422 Hudson Street; 212-255-1421.)

4. DeRobertis Pasticceria Café
Even if the server remarks that an egg cream is a rare order these days—customers are probably distracted by the cannolis—he’ll gladly whip seltzer, milk, and chocolate syrup into a foamy froth. (176 First Avenue; 212-674-7137.)

5. Ray’s Candy Store
You can get a frozen-yogurt malted, and the egg creams come in flavors from tamarindo to sky-blue raspberry, but otherwise gentrification has bypassed this tiny East Village joint. (113 Avenue A; 212-505-7609.)

Related:

• Archive: “Top Five”
• Table of Contents: Jun 2, 2003 issue of New York | Subscribe!