It expanded and lost intimacy, but at least you don’t have to ogle anyone’s bass while you stand on line for 45 minutes. The fish are still right there, on ice, as you walk in. How they get their squid to be so much more tender than anyone else’s is one of life’s enduring mysteries. Some days, the snapper ($16) is freshest; some days, the St. Peter’s ($14). At Elias, that’s all you care about: Your guy looks like it wants to go back in the water – even after being slowly grilled on the coals and getting drowned in clarified butter on the plate. Some find it hard to eat something that’s looking at them. We say you’ll never want to see another fillet. For those who must remain on the island of Manhattan, the simply roast whole pompano at Da Silvano (260 Sixth Avenue; 982-2343) is fresh, meaty, and fragrant with herbs.