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Best Non-Vegetarian Vegetarian

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Union Square Cafe
21 East 16th Street
212-243-4020

JUdson Grill
152 West 52nd Street
212-582-5252

Though it never advertises the fact, Union Square Cafe always has at least half a dozen items scattered around its menu that no tableclothless, yoga-cultured veganeria can match. Spinach-and-portobello-mushroom salad with fennel and shaved Parmesan, Indian-spiced vegetables with mushroom-basmati pilaf, and sheep's-milk ricotta gnocchi in lemon-spinach cream are three of the items currently listed. However, JUdson Grill's spring-vegetable plate boasts a scrumptious stuffed sweet onion, white-bean spring-green strudel, and a pancake of peas and stewed garden goodies so warmly appealing that even those who come to JUdson's bar just for the burgers could get off on this dish. Lovers of the harvest will be hooked faster than you can steam asparagus. Carnivores should first try the plate instead of onion rings. Then go for the rings and forget the burger. You can do it. Yes, you can.

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