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Best Sunday Dinner

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Pepolino
281 West Broadway
212-966-9983

As the sun sets at weekend's end, folks slowly emerge from their co-ops and condos hoping to find a softly lit, welcoming cocoon in which to recover from the two-day siege by eating soul-replenishing food that tastes as if it could have come from right off their own stoves—provided they ever do more than just dust their Garland ranges. Pepolino almost never turns its off, and it takes just one slurp of Enzo and Patrizio's soul-drenching pappa al pomodoro to make you think about paying their gas bill in perpetuity. What this sweetly rustic two-story cubbyhole lacks in elbow room it more than makes up for in almost coddling attentiveness and dishes that embrace, like lamb stuffed with artichokes, and pasta with braised leeks and Parmesan. If they hooked up monitors so you could watch The Practice, you might never miss not getting tucked in.

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