Whimsical ice-cream creations have been popping up all over the place, from a vanilla-ice-cream "club sandwich" with "slaw" and "pickle" on the side at the Lenox Room to "Mr. Foo's Maki Sushi Dessert Sampler," which includes coconut, chocolate, and peanut ice-cream, at Ruby Foo's. But chef Michael Haimowitz at the Morrell Wine Bar and Cafe -- with a notable assist from celebrated cheese-and ice-cream-maker Jonathan White, of Egg Farm Dairy—tops them all with his extraordinarily delicious Flight of Dessert Wine Ice Creams. He uses milk and cream without stabilizers and straight from the farm, sugar, and wine, period. The clear flavors come through the moment you taste the Sauternes ice cream, progressing to the richer Muscat, finishing off with the sweetest, Vin Santo. As the smooth ice cream melts in the mouth, you taste the wine layer by layer, the alcohol last. The effect is only metaphorically intoxicating -- the alcohol content is only 21/2 percent.