The market's in the toilet, and you have an hour to decide whether to bail on those obscure tech stocks or stick, in the knowledge that what goes down sometimes comes back up. This is no time for sushi. At the new Morton's, just in the shadow of the World Trade Center, you will not suffer some snooty chef's "concept" while emaciated catwomen all around you pick at funny little salads. Maury Povich, Tiger Woods, and Anna Wintour and their ilk regularly converge here for very well-prepared, substantial food -- served quickly. After you try the really jumbo shrimp cocktail ($12.95) or the broiled sea scallops wrapped in bacon with apricot chutney ($12.95), discuss how best to devour the competition while sawing into a 14-ounce double-cut filet mignon or a 24-ounce porterhouse ($32.95 each). Yes, there's swordfish and salmon too; so what? For dessert, there's Godiva Hot Chocolate Cake ($9.75), and is this really the day to start depriving yourself of anything?