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Best Alfresco Mexican

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Margarita
Red Hook Ball Fields
Bay and Henry Streets, Brooklyn
No telephone

Every Saturday during the warm months, soccer players from Central America gather for league play at the Red Hook ball fields. Ringing the fields are makeshift food carts where Guatemalans, Salvadorans, Nicaraguans, and Mexicans prepare tamales, papusas, taquitos, mango on a stick, and sweet fruit drinks. The food will stand up to the best fondas (think Aztec food courts) in the best markets in Mexico. The star of the weekly show is a smiling and pretty Pueblan beauty named Margarita. Her puerco con chile colorado (marinated spiced pork) and carne de res (beef) are served on fresh tortillas with grilled scallions, homemade pico de gallo, and creamy dressing. To eat Margarita's food is to enter into your own private cielito lindo (the old song, which just might be playing on the boom boxes that enliven the scene). Ask for her.

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