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Best Offal

Guastavino's
409 East 59th Street; 212-980-2455

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Until recently the term offal -- which is defined discreetly in the dictionary as "viscera and trimmings" -- wasn't used much in polite culinary circles. It took Terence Conran, who was a design mogul before he got into food, to bring new cachet to the consumption of gristly dishes like calves' brains and candied pig's trotter. Executive chef Daniel Orr even concocted an offal menu for the opening of Club Guastavino, the swanky, upstairs space in Sir Terence's new restaurant under the Queensboro Bridge. With the advent of a lighter springtime menu, a shimmery serving of calves' brains in brown butter sauce and caperberries is all that remains of this ambitious undertaking, but trenchermen of the old school will find it worth the trip.


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