Just as the London restaurant scene is finally getting a little respect as a highbrow foodie destination, Britain's most mundane working-class staple is making inroads here in New York. Fish and chips are turning up in restaurants all over town, but nobody does it better than A Salt & Battery. Any Brit would feel at home in this small, tile-lined takeout shop, where friendly Cockney chatter can be heard from the staff as they try to keep up with demand. A large selection of fish is on offer, the favorites being cod, haddock, and sole. The thick-cut golden chips nestling in the basket under the fish are thoroughly authentic -- crisp at the ends and soggy in the middle -- ideal for dipping in ketchup or sopping up a dash of malt vinegar. The fish itself has a crunchy coating and a moist and flaky interior. And -- most crucially -- it was still crisp after being wrapped in newspaper for a half-hour.